Scale Auto Replica's


                            Tools I use for my Modelmaking

Here's a few tools I couldn't do without


A lot of people have commented in the past, that I must use a very expensive airbrush to get the results I do on my bodyshells, while I do own a few airbrushes, including a DeVilbiss Aerograph Sprite Major I have owned for over 25 years, but because it has a rubber nozzle 'O' ring, it's not very good at spraying with hot lacquers, as these paints causes the rubber to swell up, it needs replacing with a teflon one.

I also have a few airbrushes made by Paasche, the VL and the H models, and the smaller F model.the VL is a double action brush which I hardly use, but the H model I use for small parts and is brilliant at shooting lacquers through, I also have a few airbrushes made by Badger, the 200,250,I have in the past used the badger 250 to paint my bodyshells, but lately I have been trying out my Paasche H fitted with a # 5 needle set up,run off a compressor with an airtank, I use this to spray acrylics and cellulose lacquers with great results, and being an external mix, it is easily cleaned up after use, for smaller parts that I need to paint with lacquer, I used the Paasche F1, it's basically a smaller and with a smaller needle set up than the H I use.


Paasche Airbrushes, H model towards to rear of the photo, model F1 at the front.





 Another one of my airbrushes, made in China (What isn't these days ?) but sold under the name of Fraulein 38, a German company that sells nail art products, I as it has a 0.3mm needle set up, I use it for fine detail with acrylics.





Another tool I have had for years is my Minicraft drill and variable speed powerpack, this has many uses from cutting, drilling and polishing painted bodyshells using a small wool mop.






When I got back into model making many years ago, I started using aerosol paints made by Hycote, these are acrylic based and cover very well,  but I wanted a better finish, and found that by decanting the paint into an airbrush I got much better results and also used less paint and didn't get anywhere near the overspray I was getting using the paint straight out of the aerosol can,these days I never use paint straight out of an aerosol, as I mainly buy small amounts (100mls) of cellulose car touch up paint, which when mixed 50:50 with thinners gives me 200mls of paint, enough to paint around  six car bodyshells, paint I decant out of aerosols I keep sealed in small glass jars.

 Decanting paint out of aerosols can be done in three ways,  first spray the paint into a glass jar, but this way is waistfull, as you get a lot of overspray coming out of the jar. second drill out the spray head in the nozzle and insert a small lenth of tube, and spray from that into the glass jar, because the paint is not being atomized you don't get the fine mist of paint, and it all ends up in the jar, and thirdly, and I have used this method a few times, pierce the can around the top part of the can using a sharp object like a dart, now be careful, the propellant will come out, so is probably best done outside, once all the propellant has escaped the can can simply be cut open and the paint poured into a glass bottle, which ever method you use, you will have to make sure that you de-gas the paint.


 These are two of my polybutler toolboxes, there used mostly for the R/C and slotracing modellers, but i find them invaluble for keeping all my tools, airbruses and hobby paints organised, last time I looked they retailed for around £75.00, but in my mind well worth it.